The Cliff Where Flowers Fell: Walking Busosanseong Fortress and Nakhwaam Rock in Buyeo’s Autumn Colors

Main gate entrance of Busosanseong Fortress in Buyeo with surrounding trees

In 660 AD, as enemy forces stormed through the gates of a royal capital, the court women of the fallen Baekje Kingdom climbed to the edge of a riverside cliff and stepped off rather than face capture. Their billowing robes, witnesses said, looked like flower petals scattering in the wind. The cliff was named Nakhwaam … Read more

Durumi Bookshop Geumsan: A Café Fighting to Keep a Town Alive

Entrance to Durumi Bookshop on the second floor of Geumbit Market, Geumsan

After the observatory views and the fish porridge, I thought the day in Geumsan was done. But my phone showed a bookshop café on the second floor of an old market building in town, and since we had time before the drive home, I figured it was worth a look. What I found at Durumi … Read more

Geumsan Day Trip: Ginseng Fields, River Views and Fish Porridge

Eojuk (freshwater fish porridge) served bubbling in a stone pot at Gangbyeon Garden, Geumsan

I’ve been to Geumsan more times than I can count — always for the food, always by car, always leaving with the same thought: this place doesn’t need to try hard. It’s a small farming county in the hills south of Daejeon, known across Korea as the ginseng capital (about 80% of the country’s ginseng … Read more